Toy Guy Stealth Valentine 1 Installation

I've always wanted to hardwire my Valentine1 (V1) Radar Dectector so I would not have to deal with all those hanging wires everywhere. More importantly however, I wanted to install the V1 Remote Display in an inconspicuous manner. Since the main V1 unit makes it hard to see the display as it goes off due to it's optimal install location, it's logical that the V1 Remote Display should be in a visible location while driving.
So I placed a call to Craig at Toy Guy Design to fabricate me one of his world renown Stealth Valentine 1 Remote Display units (see Fig. 0 below).

Fig. 0

All the steps outlined below show you how to hardwire the V1, and install Toy Guy Stealth Remote Display. You can use any subset of the steps shown to simply hardwire the V1 or just install the Toy Guy Stealth Display separately. You can hardwire your V1 install as shown on steps 1 through 29. This is not a requirement, only recommended if you wish to hide all those hanging wires that belong to the V1 setup.

1: Vehicle should be turned off and in 'Park'.
2: Disconnect negative terminal of car battery for additional safety precautions.
3: I assume no liability or responsibility for any damages that may arise either directly or indirectly as a result of the application of the information provided herein.
4: Please read instructions fully before attempting modification.
5: Utilize a well lit location to do this modification.

Step 1: The schematic of what we intend on achieving is seen directly below. I will have the Valentine 1 main unit and the Concealed Display attached to the Direct-Wire Power Adapter. This adapter will be connected to a power source existent under the instrument cluster.
Fig. 1

Step 2: Here's a picture of the Direct-Wire Power Adapter. A minor change will have to be done to the power conducting wire, and replace the connector with a 'U' shaped on as seen on the ground wire.
Fig. 2

Step 3: Cut the power wire end, and strip it just a centimeter. you can see the new 'U' connector I plan to replace on the wire.
Fig. 3

Step 4: Here's what both wires of the Direct-Wire Power Adapter look like after adding the 'U' connector.
Fig. 4

Step 5: You will need to remove the lid off of the fuse panel. You should see it once you open the driver's side door, as the fuse panel lid is at the driver's side end of the instrument cluster. If you use any sharp objects to assist you removing the lid, please use caution so you don't scratch anything. Picture below should assist you in finding the optimal manner to remove the lid.
Fig. 5

Step 6: Remove the plastic molding near the instrument cluster. Pull it away from the instrument cluster and towards the steering wheel. It should come off easily.
Fig. 6

Step 7: Remove driver's side compartment by removing the five bolts shown by number 2 in figure 3.
Fig. 7

Step 8: Even though all the bolts have been removed, the knee bolster won't drop off it's location. There is a hook where the first bolt is at that we took off. That is the bolt to the left of the steering column. You will need to move the knee bolster up a little, and use your fingers to get the hook out of it's place, and slowly let the knee bolster fall. Keep in mind that the VAG tool plug is connected to the car's electronics. No need to unplug it, as there should be enough space there to work with. Please see a picture of the hook below.
Fig. 8

Step 9: There are more then one spot to put the Direct-Wire Power Adapter that came with your Valentine 1. I happen to have chose a clear location right near the fuse panel. This location is good because it's hidden once the fuse panel lid is on. It's also within short distance of power and ground bolts. Once you remove the fuse panel lid, you should be able to spot the location I put my adapter. Please be careful as some of the exposed metal has very sharp edges.
Fig. 9

Step 10: The ground bolt should be visible between the Direct-Wire Power Adapter and the fuse panel. Keep in mind that there is a plastic piece over it. Just move it a bit with your fingers, gently so it does not break. Please see picture below.
Fig. 10

Step 11: The power bolt is found inside the knee bolster area. Now that we've moved it, use a flashlight to locate the bolt with the value '75X'. Simply unscrew it a little bit, and put the 'U' connector in place, and tighten it back up. If you did not attach a 'U' connector to the power cable, you can use the stripped wire, and wrap it around the bolt carefully, and tighten it. Make sure it's making contact, and it won't come loose easily. Please see pictures below.
Fig. 11

Step 12: Now the major work starts. In case you haven't noticed, the A-pillar trim extends from the windshield all the way to the B-pillar. This means that we have to take off a few screws, in order to muscle the Valentine 1 wiring into a nice clean location.
If you look above the B-pillar, in the roof line, there is a plastic piece that says 'Airbag' on it. You can use a small head screw, or something similar to pop it off. Please remove it carefully, as you don't want to damage the nice Alcantara roof line. You can put a plastic card, such as a library card, between the screw driver and the leather. Please see below.
Fig. 12

Step 13: Removing the small plastic piece will expose a screw. I believe it's a T10 or smaller, but can't remember at this time. If you don't have torx bits by now up to T45, you really should invest on a set. Most German vehicles use this sort of bolt pattern. Unscrew the bolt, and keep it in a safe place. The picture below is not in best of shape, but gives you an idea.
Fig. 13

Step 14: You will have to remove the handle that is attached to the roof line on the driver's side. Open the lid covering the screw as shown below. There are two screws to be removed. One on each side of the handle. Use small head screw driver as you did before to assist you.
Fig. 14

Step 15: You will need to remove the driver's side Sun visor. Without removing it, you won't be able to move the A-pillar cover much. At least not enough to get the wire through to the outter side of the plastic trim. There is a round cover over the screw. This will take some playing around with to get removed. If you have a nail clipper, use the nail filler to assist you in removing the round cover. Once removed, it will expose the screw that needs to be removed, as seen below.
Fig. 15

Step 16: Once the screw is removed, carefully pull down the Sun visor down, with the area closer to the windshield first. Please see below a picture of the plastic clip, to assist you with the removal.
Fig. 16

Step 17: Once you remove it, just leave it dangling as shown below. You may wish to pull it down a bit further. The wires are strong enough to hold the Sun visor.
Fig. 17

Step 18: Put your Valentine 1 where it will be situated on the windshield. We must do this before we start hidding the wire, so we know how much slack to leave on the wire. Location shown below is just an example. Valentine 1 needs clear visibility of front and rear of the car to work optimally. As per Valentine 1 recommended specifications, being higher in the windshield is best location to attach it.
If you look closely, you can see a bit of the wire coming down from the roof line down towards the unit.
Fig. 18

Step 19: Here's another look of the Valentine 1 attached.
Fig. 19

Step 20: Insert the wire into the roof line on the windshield as shown below.
Fig. 20

Step 21: You can 'floss' the wire between the stalk that holds the rear view mirror and the roof line. See picture below for visual assistance.
Fig. 21

Step 22: Insert the wire into the roof line, all the way to the driver's side A-pillar.
Fig. 22

Step 23: Pull the plastic trim down, where the driver's side A-pillar is, and snake the wire into it. Don't put all the wire in there. Just a good amount that will allow you to grab it from the other side of the trim. Please keep in mind that between the plastic trim and the roof line you will find a little sack, on the long side. This holds your airbag. Also, the plastic trim is very hard to bend or move even an inch. You will need to put some work into this portion of the modification, but please be careful when you do so. Please use picture below for visual assistance.
Fig. 23

Step 24: On the outside of the roof line, between the A and B-pillars, you will need to move the rubber door seal a little, and get your fingers to move the plastic trim. Once you move it, as it won't move more then half an inch or so, you must try to find the wire. Use your fingers to fish for it. Do it a few times until you find it. Because the tip of the cable is a telephone plug, I tried to put the wire as much into the outside of the plastic trim as possible on step 27. This helped me find the wire, as I was fishing for it in this step.
Fig. 24

Step 25: Once you have the wire's telephone plug, just hold the plastic trim down, and keep on pulling the wire carefully, until it's all on the outside of the car. Start putting the wire between the rubber seal and the plastic trim, on the outter edge of the door. Follow it all the way down towards the fuse panel.
Once you reach the fuse panel, tuck the wire neatly between the A-pillar and the dashboard, and just hide the rest of the wire inside the cavity where you attached the Direct-Wire Power Adapter. Plug the wire into the adapter.
Fig. 25

Step 26: Put the new Toy Guy V1 Remote Display plastic molding in place. Slide the wires below the instrument cluster, and reach below the steering column to pull the wires. The black wire with the connector needs to plug into your Direct-Wire Power Adapter. The red wires coming off the Remote Display unit is to plug to the mute button, if one was offered with your setup. If you don't have the mute button feature included, put plastic molding in place and you are done.
Fig. 26

Step 27: I attached my mute button to the turn signal stalk. This is a good location because it's easily reacheable. The only disadvantage is that this stalk is also used for high beams. When using the mute button, make sure not to press it too hard, or you will find yourself flashing folks without need. Good thing is that the mute button provided is sensitive enough that can be pressed with little touch. A few practice rounds will be required to get used to it. Use double sided tape to attach the button and the wires to the stalk. You can get these at your local hardware store.
Slide the mute button wires through the steering column. It might take a couple of tries, but they should reach.
The mute button will have two wires. Just plug each coming off the mute button, to one of the red wires coming off the Remote Display. In a one-to-one configuration, twist the wires to make a continuous connection.
You can use electrical tape to cover the exposed wires. I prefer to use heat shrink wrapper available at any hardware store. Cut the appropriate size piece, and slide one of the wires through before you twist them together obviously. Once the wires are twisted together, move the heat shrink wrap over the exposed connection, and use a lighter/heat gun/hair dryer to apply heat to the wrapper.
Fig. 27

You should be done. Run a quick sanity check. Put the knee bolster back in place. Put the plastic molding back in place. Put the fuse panel cover back in place. Enjoy it!

Posted: 04.21.2004
Edited: 11.22.2004